Yo it is not a tin can it is a piece of art. I is a very beautiful cute car
Yo it is not a tin can it is a piece of art. I is a very beautiful cute car
Thanks for posting this video! A bit late to the game, just performed my first oil change myself on the Micra last night. I knew it shouldn't be too difficult on this car but helped to have a visual to know what to look for. And as others have commented didn't even need to jack it up! The engine oil filter is super accessible too. If only all vehicles were this easy
First car: 1984 silver Nissan Micra
Current car: 2016 Gun Metallic Nissan Micra SV
I did my first oil change today. 3.0 liters puts it just a bit below H mark. I used a Wix 51365XP Oil Filter and Motul 8100 ECO-LITE 0W-20.
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View my fuel log 2019 Micra S manual: 6.3 L/100 km ... 44.7 mpg (Imp) ... 15.8 km/L ... 37.2 mpg (US) ...
After 7 years of having oil changes done at the dealer decided to start doing my own at home.
I have a bunch of machines/vehicles out of town where I do the oil changes there so needed all new supplies for home.
-new large oil drain pan with a rolled rim to stop oil slopping over & it has a drain neck with cap.
-new wide 2 piece plastic ramps (you can remove the ramp sections once the car is driven up)
-new oil filter wrench/pliers small enough to grip the tiny oil filter.
I got a Nissan oil filter @ the dealer & the parts guy included a thick copper drain bolt washer.
Purchased 5 ltr jug 5/30W semi synthetic Pennzoil. Its what I use for other machines & have always gone conventional oil on this car.
I dont think there is enough room for me to get my head under the front end without ramps so I used them.
I like to be able to see the drain bolt & oil filter contact surfaces rather than reaching under blind & wiping.
I was surprised to find what appeared to be the remains of 2-3 copper crush washers all squished on the drain plug.
Looked like the last guys just kept adding new washers over the old crushed ones.
I managed to spill a bit of oil on the engine, a 5Ltr jug is kind of bulky & my funnel is one of those long skinny kind meant for tricky fills like lawn mowers or portable generators.
I added 3.5Ltrs which is what the owners manual says & it fits with what my dealer must have been adding which is too much.
When the car was New the dipstick read exactly to the top of the cross hatch pattern.
Every time since its read above the letter H, so I would insert the dipstick only to the ORing & it would read at the top of cross hatch pattern.
Others on this forum say the car only takes 3.0 Ltrs so next change I will try that & see what the level is.
I belief the thick copper drain bolt washer should last me several more changes or never need changing.
BTW; Last Dealer oil change there was over 2000$ in recommended service "required" on the invoice.
MrMicra2015 (03-02-2024)
Yeah typical for dealerships to dream up costly maintenence.
2015 Micra S (manual)
no A/C /no power options/ block heater/4x 2 Ohm speakers...all factory stock in 2015
Feb 2015 build
9,999 purchase price + tax..no additional 1600$ because it was a 2015 purchased in 2016
so receipt says $8,399....+1600 .... so they look good i guess...for a brand new car!
They quoted me the following service required:
-Front lower control arms (badly torn bushings) & Alignment $1218
-Front brake pads & rotors (2-3 mm & Rusty Rotors) $679
-Coolant Exchange due $205
-Cabin air filter due $175
Total $2277 this was after they charged me $111 for an oil change.
BTW; I doubt they even checked it but I did replace the cabin air filter for under $30 Canadian tire sourced.
I had the lower control arm bushings checked (visible cracks only) by Kal tire after this service as I was told they were the cause of a knocking noise.
Instead they changed control arm rod/bushings for around $300 & was told the control arm bushing cracks were no big deal & that most cars over 5 years old probably have the same type of cracks.
I inspected my front brakes & found no rust & the pads were @ 4 mm.
I have ordered a full set of front rotors & pads from RockAuto for under $200. Plan to replace this spring.
I am on the fence about the coolant flush as I have 94000 kms but am at exactly (now) 7 years (84 months) use.
Im tempted just to drain the fluid & empty the overflow tank & refill with proper blue Nissan coolant rather than the dealer "flush" service.
They have also on previous visits said my battery failed its test. I have a checker & it measures PASS but probably on the low end of spec. Car starts fine, maybe later.
Coolant in the owners manual in section Maintenance and do-it-yourself 8-7:
The life expectancy of the factory-fill coolant is 105,000 miles (168,000 km) or 7 years.
So that is why they have that on the list.
I had our Micra coolant flushed last year (we have a 2015 with 93K on it). I like to see it being done (hooked up to the machine) and I only have that done at the dealership because I want factory coolant in it. I don't like it to be changed it with somethng else like "universal or compatible". Just me being picky though there are different chemical formulations I have been told.
Maybe some expert Micra guy or gal can chime in on just changing the fluid as opossed to a flush.
Last edited by GreatWhite; 03-03-2024 at 09:13 AM.
You make a good point about having the dealer do the service with the proper equipment.
Just draining the rad leaves the old coolant in the engine block & heater core.
Flushing the engine with tap water would leave straight water in the block further diluting the already pre-diluted Nissan coolant when added.
The whole job would be messy & would require proper disposal of the old coolant as well.
I know places like Mr Lube advertise the same service but they would probably not use the Nissan coolant & I dont have much faith in those guys.