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Thread: Transmission cooling line leak

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    Transmission cooling line leak

    I have a leak on what looks to be a transmission cooling line, runs off the transmission oil pan and along the bottom of the rad.
    Anyone have had to replace this?



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    Administrator MetroMPG's Avatar
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    This is the first I've heard of this problem.

    Corrosion?

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        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Micra S manual: 5.0 L/100 km ... 56.5 mpg (Imp) ... 20.0 km/L ... 47.0 mpg (US) ...


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    It looks a bit corroded around the plastic retaining clip, I moved it around a bit and is leaking worse now. Trying to find a part number or diagram showing this part.
    One good thing, my underbody doesn't need an oil spray.

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    Senior Member MrMicra2015's Avatar
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    if you wiggled it and it got worse maybe its just not seated/sealing at the fitting....or a big rock whacked it
    2015 Micra S (manual)
    no A/C /no power options/ block heater/4x 2 Ohm speakers...all factory stock in 2015
    Feb 2015 build
    9,999 purchase price + tax..no additional 1600$ because it was a 2015 purchased in 2016
    so receipt says $8,399....+1600 .... so they look good i guess...for a brand new car!

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    It's the steel line that looks like is leaking, no connections near that point

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    If you are about trans cooling line i noticed today while under mine then its not steel its rubber line going from transmission to the rad’s plastic fitting with simple hose clamp on it. Picture would be very helpful but i think the rad itself is leaking not the line.

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    MrMicra2015 (11-06-2020)

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    Senior Member MrMicra2015's Avatar
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    +! on the pictures...assuming its oil and it IS the line.a rock might have hit it..or it rusted?...i doubt that....probably better to unbolt it and replace with new one for 200 dollars or so...you dont want to lose all the trans oil
    2015 Micra S (manual)
    no A/C /no power options/ block heater/4x 2 Ohm speakers...all factory stock in 2015
    Feb 2015 build
    9,999 purchase price + tax..no additional 1600$ because it was a 2015 purchased in 2016
    so receipt says $8,399....+1600 .... so they look good i guess...for a brand new car!

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    I will grab some pictures today.
    It is a rubber line off the pan that leads to a steel line with a hose clamp. The first bend in the steel line snaps into a plastic clip under the rad with a second line running above it. It is oil dripping from it.

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    We'll, the wife had an emergency at work (works at the hospital) and took her car and it broke down. She said it won't shift out of 1st gear, guessing her fluid is low from the leak.
    Going to tow it to the stealership, hoping it's not messed up!

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    Its hard to kill jf414e with low oil but lifespan of transmission is significantly reduced for sure. Refill with fluid and it should shift. If no then its major overhaul for which dealership will charge ton of money. I am sure they cant overhaul that transmission. I have seen how dealerships are working( have buddies in some nissan and chrysler dealerships). So to towing it there for transmission repair is the worst choice. I would recommend either specialized transmission repair places with good reviews or DIY.

    First step refill with fluid by checking the level same time.
    See if its shifting if yes then deal with the leak. After that warmup transmission fluid by driving preferably in the neighborhood. Then drain the fluid and check for shavings. If you see shiny pieces in the fluid then time to check for bearings. If dark particles are coming out too then friction plates are burned because of low oil. If after filling with fluid its not shifting it may be solenoids are ****ed because of those shavings and cant open the channels in hydroblock. Its not hard to take hydroblock out drop the pan and take hydroblock out by unbolting the mounting bolts then take wiring diagram see which connector corresponds to which solenoid and apply voltage see if they are clicking normally. Some might be weak because of wear and shaft can be rubbing against the bushings in the solenoid preventing force of the magnet to be applied fully. In that case its just solenoid swap with new ones. Time consuming but you will save a lot of money.
    Another thing to check is if there are any bearing noises after warmup. If there are then will be harder to diy but doable with right simple tools. The hardest part will be unmounting and mounting trans back trust me. Defecting the parts and replacing is one person job but taking it out then back from the car thats torture with 2 hands.


    Last edited by Plutus; 11-08-2020 at 09:54 AM.

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