DIY Lowering springs
DHL deliveries are great. For about $355 after shipping and duties, I finally have some drop springs from RHD Japan. https://www.rhdjapan.com/ I debated between Eibach, H&R, and RS*R for a while. I pulled the trigger on the RS*R Down kit, mainly for the 35mm even drop front and rear. In hindsight, I would have gone with the N009D from RS*R for the firmer front spring rate. An excellent list of available kits can be found on n15sk4 's post here: https://micra-forum.com/showthread.p...-for-k13-micra
- Jack stands
- Jack stands
- Jack (scissor or other)
- Coil spring compressor (rent from CT or pick up at Princess Auto for about $30 when on sale)
- Bench vise (not essential)
- 6mm hex wrench or socket
- 21mm x 2
- 16mm (5/8 is the same)
- Flat head screwdriver/small prybar
Starting with the front, break the torque on your front wheels nuts, then jack and support the car at the two jack points with stands. Remove the front wheels and pop the hood.
Remove the sway bay link (16mm or 5/8)You'll notice how these are very light and hollow, I'm looking forward to some upgraded aftermarket replacements, or maybe I'll grab some heim joints and see what I can come up with for my next DIY:
Then remove the brake line. Use your pry bar to slide the “U” clip out, and pull the brake line free of the bracket. The ABS line simply pops straight up and out of it's bracket.
Next remove the 2x 21mm nuts from the lower strut bolts, leave the bolts for now until you get the top strut nut off:
Now remove the top nut. Hold the strut rod with the 6mm hex, and remove the 18mm nut. Once this is done, you can then remove the lower bolts and guide the strut assembly out (be cognizant of the positioning of your wheel hub at this point. Too much flopping around can be bad for your ball joints and CV joints) Collect the upper strut bushing:
With both struts removed, it is time to remove the springs. This is where a bench vise comes in handy. If you happen to have the strut clamp special tool available from the OEM or SnapOn, great. If not, just clamp the sway bar tab in the vise:
Now install your spring compressor. Compress the spring enough so that ALL tension on the top hat is relieved. I won't get into safety on this one, but tighten the two sides evenly, slowly and not all one side at once:
Use your 6mm hex again, and break free the 18mm top hat locking nut and remove the top hat and boot assembly, then remove the spring and scarefully decompress the spring and remove the compressor:
If your strut is showing as much rust where the spring contacts the spring seat as mine did, it's a good time to touch it up with some rust paint.
Grab your new spring and install it on to the strut. Depending on the height difference of your new spring compared to the factory spring, and whether or not you are using drop struts, you may or may not need to use the compressor. The RS*R's did not need to be compressed:
Ensure the spring is in it's proper location on the seat then reinstall the top hat and boot, and torque the locking nut:
Reinstall the strut on the car in the reverse order. Make sure to reconnect the brake line and ABS line in their respective locations.
After double checking all lines and that everything is torqued, put your wheels back on and lower the front end.