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Thread: Let's talk about the R-word.... Rust. (and how to fix it)

  1. #11
    Senior Member Azmodon's Avatar
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    Penetrol :P home hardware has it, not cheap, but you don't need much. It's linseed oil mixed with naptha and some other stuff to thin it - causes it to be very... capillaric... if that's a word. So long as any loose rust is removed, it will fill the sponge structure of existing surface rust and run through straight to the base metal if there's a route. Then the linseed oxidises becoming plastic basically - having filled the surface and any cracks / rust means it displaces any O2 or H2O from the structure and further rusting is impossible unless it becomes physically damaged. Boat builders have been using it on literally every surface (except sails), both above and below the waterline to waterproof everything - it's even been used to waterproof fibre board.

    Abrade the rusted area and get rid of loose paint - then add a drop of the liquid, any remaining rust will almost instantly absorb it and you can watch it crawl through everything, you can then immediately add paint if you have it handy, no need to wait for it to dry. If you're doing large pieces and will be using something larger than a paint pen, you can pre-mix the paint and penetrol together before applying - works really well with primers to get them stuck on super well and right down to virgin metal.


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    MetroMPG (09-12-2017)

  3. #12
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    not sure if this is too late, but here's another option to remove the rust spot on the hood:

    take a paper towel and saturate with Evaporust, and lay it on the rust. keep towel saturated for 12 to 24 hours with an eyedropper.

    if you can build a dam around the rust spot with gorilla tape, to try to stop the liquid running off, so much the better.

    Evaporust dissolves rust without damaging paint. good luck

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    Member callmemister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by duncan1437 View Post
    not sure if this is too late, but here's another option to remove the rust spot on the hood:

    take a paper towel and saturate with Evaporust, and lay it on the rust. keep towel saturated for 12 to 24 hours with an eyedropper.

    if you can build a dam around the rust spot with gorilla tape, to try to stop the liquid running off, so much the better.

    Evaporust dissolves rust without damaging paint. good luck
    Cool ! thanks for the tip! Will try !

    CMM

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    Has anyone had their Micra start to rust?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
    For stone chips, just touch it up with a dab of paint. Even if there's a little rust in the chip, it'll be fine.

    I would also HIGHLY recommend doing an annual anti-rust treatment like Krown. The worst rust (the kind that sends cars to the junkyard before their time) rarely come from stone chips - it's going to come from the inside out. If an eastern car is regularly rust-treated by a reputable technician, it can last as long as a west coast car. (I picked up a 2000 Metro last year which lived its entire life IN MONTREAL -- as bad as it gets for rusty locations -- and the original paint body is pristine because it was anti-rust sprayed multiple years.)

    With one exception: check underneath your rocker panels, near the back. The paint is prone to "sand blasting", and if you get a hole under the rocker that water can be blasted inside, that's going to be a serious problem.

    See:
    Thread: Sandblasted / chipped rear rocker panel and dogleg (potential rust problem)
    No, you must get rid of as much of the rust as you can. Even if you just scratch it out with a pocket knife then prime it and paint with touch-up paint. You will have to redo it every year forever and it will still continue rusting, but you will slow it down.



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