Saw this on ebay, can only wish could engine swap it without all the crazy costs of bigger brakes and such hehe
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/282387302638
Pulsar SSS MR16 1.6 Turbo 190HP
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Saw this on ebay, can only wish could engine swap it without all the crazy costs of bigger brakes and such hehe
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/282387302638
Pulsar SSS MR16 1.6 Turbo 190HP
You dont need to go to Australia via eBay to get the engine.
Car-parts.com is a car yard site and you can source a juke engine and tranny.
I believe it's about $2500 of a decent eng/trans with turbo and all the fixings
You need a support welded on the the passenger side strut tower and the rest is mechanic wizardry.
But yes ... turbo vs swap .. monetarily it's makes more sense to just get a swap. Then to spend the same
On a turbo and only get 170 unreliable donkeys or basically and lighter mini juke ( same chassis and general shape )
Mijukecra
"Mijukecra" - too long for a customized license plate? :D
Thought this would be an appropriate thread to share this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8ysVYx97xo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8ysVYx97xo
http://www.mvspreparacoes.com.br/?p=...%20Turbo/Fase1
Looks like a turbocharged k13 in Brazil and appears to have untouched internals. Just a bolton custom turbo kit.
Their dyno results:
206whp @6200RPM
193lb-ft @4200RPM
I wonder how much abuse the stock internals can take with that setup before it goes pop!
No.
That's a simulated crank horse power. It's using an adjustment table
If that were true, crank hp would be 230hp an 218tq.
If simulated crank. Wheel hp would be 181.5hp 168tq
The transmission is rated for 171 ft lbs
There base started at 130.3hp and 124.4ft lbs.
from a k&n filter.
We know from Injen oem vs aftermarket dyno the drive train power loss is about 15-17%crank to wheel.
stock 94hp/93tq >injen 98hp/97tq
They did increase cv by 77.2 or 76hp and kg/m 9.5 or 68.7ft-lbs
Math backs it up:
207hp x 11.5afr (.55bscf/60) 21.82 - 14.7 =7.12 (.49bar) they used .51bar that difference is altitude
207-15%/193-15%
176hp/164tq wheel.
If you look at pull 1/2/3
3 is the "big number pull"
Around 5k rpm tq is locked at 25kg/m
I should be tuned to hit 25 fast and hold as long as possible ( 6000+rpm )
It detunes in the 3rd pull from peak because of timing needed to retard knock.
It climbs again after torque declines because less knock inhibited.
If I was tuning this car I would increase the octane rating so I can increase timing an hold 25kg/m
25kg/m is 180 crank ft-lbs 153at the wheel.
I believe the "1st" pull is the refined tune and the "3rd pull" is the "auto tune" max torque before knock run.
The dyno chart in the middle is the "1st pull" 188cv > 186crank hp / 24.3kg/m > 175 crank tq
With a linear tq/hp line. ( 158 wheel hp / 149 wheel Tq ) seems legit now right?!?
This is a common thing in car scene, using certain units of measurement and different dyno modes to produce inflated results
For comparison the Greek turbo kit produced 149 crank ( sim ) 101 wheel hp with 146 ft lbs @ .3bar or 5 psi.
This is at .5 bar or 7 and a bit psi ...
Simulated crank HP on a dyno.. :vomits:
I'm used to seeing high reading dynos (mustang) at certain altitudes with tunes for peak power instead of usable power but at least they use numbers at the wheel..
That power band and where you mention it drops off due to retarding the ignition is pretty brutal.
I wish there was a simple end user tuning/data logging platform for our cars and I could tune to 91 octane and i/h/e myself..
With what solution? KTuner and hondata has me spoiled. I just want a board on the ECU I can directly connect to to modify and adjust maps, features and tunes and live datalog. Is there any solution like that for Nissans that doesnt require directly rewiring the entire harness?
From my understanding uprev starting point is copying the stock bin.
Then modify parameters. Need a hanrnes extention to make plug an play.
Or hack into oem harness.
Aem is blank. You need to make or alter harness and then self learn / tune.
There is no direct plug and play piggy back even the one used in the Greek turbo kits pre-programmed but it's software is if-y.
Honda and skyline and Subies have a lot of basic status quo upgrades and huge followings so it's easier to make pre-programmed plug and play kits that require little adaptations and tuning and are pretty much good to go
I didn't mention the IMPUL because as much as it is oem plug in ecu option. It requires the use of the upgraded throttle body as that's what it's tuned for. On top of that it tuned for j-spec "RON" not usdm "AKI" so you would have to use the equivalent of whatever RON grade it's tuned for .. which it isn't an exact match.
There is no point in paying for it new I'm sure nistune or someone like that will unlock it soon and be able to solider in a board and make the oem ecu tuneable.
That's what I'm hoping for. Obviously 2 completely different sets of ppl have found a solution for tuning with adding a turbo it's been done twice and both different ways. I curious to k ow what solution this other one uses.
Uprev is less self tune friendly. It's less flexible and if you staying n/a and just doing Intake exhaust type stuff that's probably the solution for you.
For me, I want flexibility. I don t want to have to buy a new ecu if I change turbos or have a turbo or add aux injection.
Full tunability for this car with turbo would be AEM: infinity 708 pn: 30-7101 because of the injectors. We have 8 and I'm not sure if high or low or if I'd change them. So I definitely need this ecu. And this thing is sweet.
Aem comparison chart:
http://www.jegs.com/photos/0/017/017...comparison.jpg
30-7101 specs
http://www.aemelectronics.com/produc...finity-8-10-12
So impractical tho .. $3.5k can :(
Nissan March 1.6 16V
Turbo: .42.48 Master Power Racing
Fuel: Alcohol *i guess E85 ethanol?
Engine: 1600cc
Pistons: Originals
Cranksets: Originals
Crankshaft: Original
Steering wheel: Original
Header: 16V Original
Exhaust: 2.5 "with 1 damper
Collector Exhaust: Turbular MonoFluxo
Collector Intake: Plastic (Original)
Air Filter: Sport Conical K & N
Pressurizing: Galvanized Steel
Intercooler: YES
Oil cooler: No
Injection: Original, with Electronic Accelerator
Supplementary Injection: Pandoo Pulser Plus
Ignition: Original
Sail Cables: Originals
Candles: NGK Iridiun
Electric Pump: Original Internal
Nozzles: 4 Originals + 1 Supplementary
Doser: Original Internal in Tank
Suspension: Sports Springs
Brake: Originals
Clutch: Original
Plateau: Original
Preparation, Development, Installation and Setup: MVS-Preparations
This is the spec list. I uses 4inj head plus 1 aux injector . ( ethanol requires 1.5 the amount of fuel as gas to produce the same output)
Can't find anything about the ecu. I'll rewatch the video and see if I can figure out what they use.
Mines Tuning in Japan recently also took a few HR15DE's and started giving them some proper tuning, catalogue bellow shows off their current offerings for the K13 Nismo S.
link: http://www.mines-wave.com/JP/CATALOG...SMO_S_K13.html
P.s the owner of the demo car on the pictures is a friend of mine from another hobby, he shared me a few secrets Mines is planning for the car, e.g individual camshafts for sale etc, and also the VX-ROM from Mines for their tuned E12 Note Nismo S is also available for purchase since that car uses an HR16DE (Nismo tuned, dedicated cams, valve springs, and weighted crankshaft "balanced" producing about 140hp.
Hi there i have a micra with hr16de engine. Was considering turbo charging it. However with a few sources saying that turbo charged it will add an extra 30bhp from stock bhp i thibk thats not big gains. Im thinking of just doing an engine swap for a srb20 or something. Unless i can gain 200bhp at least from the hr engine? Your help appreciated.
I am not sure how I can help, what’s your question?