Rear Wheel Bearings Replaced

When I purchased my 2019 Micra used with 8000km on it, I noticed that the dust caps were siliconed because whoever removed them previously damaged them.

Over the course of the past few weeks I’ve been noticing the typical wheel bearing howl in the rear (I’m at 42,000km).

So today I replaced both sides. I ordered Timken (made in USA) bearings from Rock Auto ($100 shipped). Oddly enough, both bearings were made by NTN in India, not Timken (even though the box was Timken). I plan on following up with Rock Auto and Timken to figure out why this happened. I will report back.

The install was straightforward. Jack up the car, remove the wheel, gently remove the dust cap, remove the axle nut, remove the drum, remove the ABS rotor sensor, remove the bearing retention clip (c clip) and then press out the old bearing. Installation is in the reverse order.

I purchased a cheap bearing press kit from Amazon that worked well. All said and done I completed the job in just over two hours and it’s good as new. I was able to reuse the ABS rotor sensor on the drum but I did replace the axle nuts which were $11/each at the dealer. I torqued them to 209nm/154ft lbs.

If you’re doing this yourself you will want to have the following tools:

-bearing press kit ($89 on Amazon)
-30mm socket ($10 at Princess Auto)
-breaker bar or a chunk of strong pipe
-bench vice

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Wow, a 154ft lbs on the axel nut.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jgoedhard

Wow, a 154ft lbs on the axel nut.

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That is the torque spec from the manufacturer.

I remember Volkswagen mk2 had to be somewhere that high at the initial torque but then backed off and then finger tight.

I just wish there was a hole in the drum so then one can adjust the rear brakes, to snug them up instead of ramming it in reverse and hitting the brakes hard which is a hit and miss with me. More misses than hits.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jgoedhard

I remember Volkswagen mk2 had to be somewhere that high at the initial torque but then backed off and then finger tight.

I just wish there was a hole in the drum so then one can adjust the rear brakes, to snug them up instead of ramming it in reverse and hitting the brakes hard which is a hit and miss with me. More misses than hits.

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The axle nut is a locking kind that uses a nylon insert. Backing the nut off would compromise the integrity of the lock nut. I believe it’s why the manufacturer recommends replacing the axle nut after every removal.

On the drum backing plate, I believe there is a rubber grommet or two where the shoes can be inspected and adjusted without removing the drum.

I just had mine changed at the garage. They changed the rear drum (very very rusted), pads, and bearings on both rear wheels, and it cost me 900$. Damn, I wish I could have done it myself but not the case. They also installed my new Fast Wheels mags and that is also part of the cost.

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