DIY: Lowering Springs - RS*R Down kit

DIY Lowering springs

DHL deliveries are great. For about $355 after shipping and duties, I finally have some drop springs from RHD Japan. https://www.rhdjapan.com/ I debated between Eibach, H&R, and RS*R for a while. I pulled the trigger on the RS*R Down kit, mainly for the 35mm even drop front and rear. In hindsight, I would have gone with the N009D from RS*R for the firmer front spring rate. An excellent list of available kits can be found on n15sk4 's post here: https://micra-forum.com/showthread.p...-for-k13-micra

Attachment 5252

Attachment 5253

Tools required:

• Jack stands
• Jack stands
• Jack (scissor or other)
• Coil spring compressor (rent from CT or pick up at Princess Auto for about $30 when on sale)
• Bench vise (not essential)
• 6mm hex wrench or socket
• 21mm x 2
• 18mm
• 16mm (5/8 is the same)
• Flat head screwdriver/small prybar

FRONT

Starting with the front, break the torque on your front wheels nuts, then jack and support the car at the two jack points with stands. Remove the front wheels and pop the hood.

Remove the sway bay link (16mm or 5/8)You'll notice how these are very light and hollow, I'm looking forward to some upgraded aftermarket replacements, or maybe I'll grab some heim joints and see what I can come up with for my next DIY:

Attachment 5255

Then remove the brake line. Use your pry bar to slide the “U” clip out, and pull the brake line free of the bracket. The ABS line simply pops straight up and out of it's bracket.

Next remove the 2x 21mm nuts from the lower strut bolts, leave the bolts for now until you get the top strut nut off:

Attachment 5256

Now remove the top nut. Hold the strut rod with the 6mm hex, and remove the 18mm nut. Once this is done, you can then remove the lower bolts and guide the strut assembly out (be cognizant of the positioning of your wheel hub at this point. Too much flopping around can be bad for your ball joints and CV joints) Collect the upper strut bushing:

Attachment 5262

With both struts removed, it is time to remove the springs. This is where a bench vise comes in handy. If you happen to have the strut clamp special tool available from the OEM or SnapOn, great. If not, just clamp the sway bar tab in the vise:

Attachment 5257

Now install your spring compressor. Compress the spring enough so that ALL tension on the top hat is relieved. I won't get into safety on this one, but tighten the two sides evenly, slowly and not all one side at once:

Attachment 5258

Use your 6mm hex again, and break free the 18mm top hat locking nut and remove the top hat and boot assembly, then remove the spring and scarefully decompress the spring and remove the compressor:

Attachment 5259

If your strut is showing as much rust where the spring contacts the spring seat as mine did, it's a good time to touch it up with some rust paint.

Grab your new spring and install it on to the strut. Depending on the height difference of your new spring compared to the factory spring, and whether or not you are using drop struts, you may or may not need to use the compressor. The RS*R's did not need to be compressed:

Attachment 5260

Ensure the spring is in it's proper location on the seat then reinstall the top hat and boot, and torque the locking nut:

Attachment 5261

Reinstall the strut on the car in the reverse order. Make sure to reconnect the brake line and ABS line in their respective locations.

After double checking all lines and that everything is torqued, put your wheels back on and lower the front end.

Cont'd

REAR

Jack up the rear of the car by the jacking/tow hoop under the rear bumper. Support with stands then position your jack in the middle of the rear suspension beam (use a block off wood or hockey puck to prevent damage). The jack will be used to relieve pressure from the lower shock bolt. Also to keep your springs from expanding too far too quickly when the shock bolts are removed. BEWARE when lowering the jack to remove the springs that you DO NOT want to allow the full weight of the rear suspension to hang freely. This will cause a lot of stress on your rubber brakes lines.

Remove 18mm rear shock bolts:

Attachment 5263

Lower the jack enough to pull out the springs, and collect the upper spring isolators.

Shown here is the difference in height of the two springs:

Attachment 5264

Place the upper spring isolator on the new spring ensuring it is seated correctly (both rear springs are the same):

Attachment 5265

Install the spring in the lower spring seat, ensuring the lower spring isolator is positioned correctly:

Attachment 5266

Once the springs are seated, slowly raise the jack until you can line up the lower shock bolts and reinstall them. You can then reposition your jack to the jacking point, and lower the car. Make sure the upper isolator lands properly on it's locating bump. You may need to reach in and assist it:

Attachment 5267

End state (I hate myself for not having before picture):

Attachment 5268

Finally, hit the twisties and enjoy a much better handling Micra... just watch out for the potholes.

Cheers,
Drew

Thanks for posting this. You've re-invigorated me to look into lowering mine again. I found 2 suppliers in the GTA relatively close to me so I've emailed them to see what they have in stock and prices etc. for the Tanabe TNF174 or the Eibach E10-63-023-02-22.
I replaced the springs on my 03 Nissan Maxima with a set of Eibach lowering springs about 5 years ago and I was very happy with them and the procedure looks very similar.

Very nice write up. Thanks!

Thanks for the detailed DIY!

Will add to the Micra modifications, customizations & DIY list .

Thank you for providing so much detail and your source for parts!!

Thanks to NotASportsCar for the well described steps with pics. Here's my before and after following this method. Also as noted in his original post that they sway bar links are bit like steering with tooth picks so I picked up some Moog sway bar links. Also got some new bushings for the front struts.

Also wanted to mention that I was quoted $1000+ from more than one Auto Garage to do the install. One actually argued with me on the phone telling me that I was an idiot for considering doing this. Well 4 hours of my time and here we go.

Before: My car didn't pass the MCM Shoe test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qT_jgVqxH5U

Attachment 5366

After: Now we're ready for the track

Attachment 5369

Here are the sway bar links I bought from Moog with part number K750098. These I should improve steering a bit but you won't necessarily feel it since our steering is electric.

Attachment 5368

Also the Bushings, these are pretty much identical to the stock ones. Part number K160420. These help with softer ride now that our ride is a bit firmer.

Wow! That looks great! How do you find the car handles now with the new suspension setup?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Parmejohn

Wow! That looks great! How do you find the car handles now with the new suspension setup?

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After the install, I took it out for a test run on some back roads. So far I'm so happy with the way it handles now. Way less body roll and the bumps are really not that bad since these are quality springs you actually get a better ride all around.

I really can't believe how simple the install was I mean having all the tools, a good Jack and Jack stands. The other thing is the alignment which I thought would be an issue is not at all. It's actually really tough to mess up the alignment on the Micra since the back is not adjustable and the front only has one camber adjustment with the tie rod which is not affected by this work. I put the jack under the knuckle when I was taking the struts off just for some extra support to not let it dangle so much.

Nice work, and great job sourcing some sturdier sway bar links!