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Thread: Battery Removal Q (engine no-start problem - SOLVED)

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    Battery Removal Q (engine no-start problem - SOLVED)

    Anyone have any tips for removing the battery? I've got the terminals off and the intake moved enough to clear -- I can't seem to find any holddowns at the tray (nor on top), but the battery also won't budge. Am I missing something obvious?



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    Quote Originally Posted by casey_ns View Post
    Am I missing something obvious?
    In short, yes; missing something obvious. The plastic battery shroud was hooked over the bolt head for the retainer.

    Good news, battery out and tested, bad news, the no start, presumed to be due to bad batt is something different entirely.

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    Senior Member MrMicra2015's Avatar
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    Hmmmm...very interested to hear what the final result is...keep us posted Casey...if you have specific symptoms alot of people here will give advice, and about 1/2 is very useful.....lol
    2015 Micra S (manual)
    no A/C /no power options
    Feb 2015 build

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    Administrator MetroMPG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by casey_ns View Post
    bad news, the no start, presumed to be due to bad batt is something different entirely.
    Uh oh - yes, please let us know what is/was happening.

    alot of people here will give advice, and about 1/2 is very useful.....lol

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Micra S manual: 5.0 L/100 km ... 56.5 mpg (Imp) ... 20.0 km/L ... 47.0 mpg (US) ...


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    Now that all is sorted, can do. Buckle up, it's a long one, I'll try to boil down the parts which may be future-relevant:

    All this winter, I've been having trouble with my hatch close switch. Occasionally the interior hatch light will stay off with the hatch open, and vice versa. Sometimes, but not always, the 'door not closed' dash light would flash intermittently while driving. At the same time, I've been noticing that when I open the hatch after a rain, I'd get a nice shower of water down my neck coming from around the carpet which covers the interior side of the hatch. Working with my local dealer, we isolated the leak to the rubber grommet which surrounds the wiper arm base. They arranged to replace the grommet and latch assembly under warranty (the latch assembly contains the hatch close switch, presumed failed due to repeated water ingress).

    info #1: if there's water inside your hatch (internal to the door), check if it's coming in through the rubber grommet around the wiper; failing this, you likely have a window seal issue or holed door

    Following this determination, but before the servicing, I had my key cylinder lock up after a decent period of not driving. Given the possibility of battery issues with the hatch light, I figured the battery was flat (it wasn't). A second attempt with a more aggressive pull on the wheel loosed the key cylinder and the car started -- thankful that the car started, I immediately keyed if off (spoiler alert -- don't).

    info #b: You probably already know, but in case you don't -- if your key cylinder locks up, try pulling the wheel as far as it will go left / right and retry the key. Also, park with your E-brake on to generally prevent this from happening.

    On next attempt to start the car, engine turns, won't catch. Again, figured the battery (for sure this time), pulled it, put it on the charger -- reads 90%, top it off, put it back in, still no start. Check all fuses, main belt, filter box for mice, all ok. About to arrange a ~70km tow to the dealer, and call in first. Instructed to floor pedal before start, then feather back while starting -- Success. Likely issue -- a quick start/stop in cold weather will trigger the fuel heavy trim to quickly bring the engine up to temp -- if you kill the engine just after starting, a huge amount of fuel will be left dumped. On next start, you're pretty much guaranteed to be flooded.

    info #the third: Flooring the pedal before starting will disable the injectors to address a flooded engine, allowing a purge before starting. Feathering back the pedal will allow the injectors to kick back in, and the engine to catch. Conversely, 1/3 pedal depression will boost fuel trim on starting. Both of these are in the manual (oops).

    Long story short: read your manual, ensure that your brain is engaged before trying to diagnose an issue.

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    Senior Member MrMicra2015's Avatar
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    Thanks for the explanation..please to hear its mostly all sorted...sometimes i need a couple of tries at starting the car....for 10K i dont complain because it always does

    Odd the way the dealer seemed to know how to fix it....i wonder if it happens alot with Nissans
    2015 Micra S (manual)
    no A/C /no power options
    Feb 2015 build

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    Administrator MetroMPG's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting the update.

    Glad you got the leak & no-start figured out.

        __________________________________________

        click to view fuel log View my fuel log 2015 Micra S manual: 5.0 L/100 km ... 56.5 mpg (Imp) ... 20.0 km/L ... 47.0 mpg (US) ...


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    Quote Originally Posted by MrMicra2015 View Post
    Odd the way the dealer seemed to know how to fix it....i wonder if it happens alot with Nissans
    I'm glad they could point me in the right direction -- since they're in the business of fixing vehicles if they didn't have a good suggestion, I'd be more worried about that. As for happening a lot -- this was the first time the car didn't start on the first crank in 46k of driving, so.. not particularly often, in my case anyhow.



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